The tube and worm system has been around for a long time. During this time the line, the situation, and the methods used have changed slightly over the years. However the basic theory has not changed. The tube imitates a worm hatch that happens in most bodies of salt water around Cape Cod. Some at different times due to water temperature but usually during the early summer, early to mid June to early July in some places. These worms are a favorite food for both bass and bluefish. This first photo shows you how successful this lure system can be, especially in Cape Cod bay.

The lure consists of a plastic colored tube around 1/2 inch in outside diameter that is hollow with a wire leader through it with a barrel swivel on one end and a hook at the other. There is a twist to the lure created by the wire, and on some tubes at the end with the barrel swivel there is a small lead head around a 1/2 to a 1/4 of an ounce in weight. Other types of tubes do not have the lead weight, they have a plastic cap. The situation you are fishing in can determine which one you will use. Actually, it is more a personal choice. Both types of tube work equally well in all situations. It is thought that the tube with the slight lead weight may fish slightly deeper with the same amount of line out. I believe it is only measured in a foot or two. It may sink faster when you stop and try to get the tube down to fish in the deep water, but again only slightly faster. Your speed through the water should be fairly constant when fishing the tube. You want to be moving at a steady speed of 1.5 to 2 knots over the bottom on your GPS or Loran. The line used with this system is mainly the lead core line. This line comes in 100 yard sections, usually two sections to a box. The line has ten different colors, each color signifies 30 feet. Because of this you can tell exactly how much line you have let out. There is a basic rule of thumb that you should use 30 feet of line or one color for every 5 feet of water you are in if the fish are on the bottom. If the fish are up off the bottom you set you gear to the fish. For example, if you mark fish at 20 feet of water and you are fishing in 30 feet of water you would set out 4 colors on the lead core. If you mark fish in the grass in shoal areas you will want to fish the tube just above the grass. There are situations where you may use either more or less line, either a full color or an half a color. This comes with experience in the areas you fish in.

One other important aspect of your tube and worm system is the leader. Most will use 10 to 12 feet of
40 to 50 pound test leader material. In the charter industry that’s about what I use except I run 15
feet or so of 50 pound test leader, for the purpose of longevity. In the private sector I’d advise you
to use no more than 30 pound test leader. The next is the snap-swivels. The tube spins going through
the water so without adequate swivels your line will twist up. A pair of good ball bearing snap-swivels
should do the trick, but it is something you must watch for.
The rod you want use with this lure system should be fairly soft. That is a light action rod especially
in the tip with some backbone in the butt. The reel should be a good level wind that can hold 100 yards
of the pound test lead core line plus at least 200 feet of backing. The lead core line comes up to 60
pound test. You don’t need any more than 36 or 45 pound test for most areas on the Cape unless you
figure you’ll be fishing in over 100 feet of water most of the time. If you set the drag correctly and
use a light action rod you will not have any trouble landing even a 50 pound fish on the 36 pound test
line.

There is one thing you should keep in mind. Lead core line doesn’t last more than one season. The fact
that the core of the line is lead does two things. First, the lead core can break inside the dacron
line and chafe the dacron so in time it will part. Second, the saltwater reacts with the lead and
weakens the dacron if it sits on the reel for a long time. We have found if you change your line at the
beginning of the season you will not have any trouble for the year. If you do find that your line has
parted and not because the drag was too tight, change it immediately.

Well, that should do it. I’ve given you just about all the information I can. The rest you’ll have to pick up on your own. Actually that is how most of us do learn this sport. Experience is your best teacher. If you watch what happens during your fishing trips, learning what do works and what doesn’t, before long you’ll realize you’re going to be learning right up to the last day you go fishing.

That is it for this week! Hap
E-mail - stunmai@copper.net

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